3000 sq ft 1890's Victorian in Central NY

I am new to this blog, but hopefully this will help someone.In addition to all the other good advice, I have found a radiant barrier paint additive(available online,haven't found it in stores) that can allow the thermostat to be set 3-5 degrees lower in winter while feeling like the higher temperature,for example, we keep ours at @60-62,yet the house feels like 68 or better because the paint reflects the heat back into the room instead of allowing it to migrate through the walls.It also helps to keep our 1893 Victorian farmhouse cooler in the summer, although we do take advantage of passive cooling and ceiling fans too.Radiant barriers are basically like aluminum foil and reflect heat back from the surface,just like car sunshades.Sherwin Williams has come out with a thermal paint that claims 10-15% savings, but I haven't used their product so I can't say if it works the same.There is also a foil-bubble-foil product (reflectix at Lowe's, cheaper through online sources in larger quantities) that works well for insulating under floors and around water tanks.It is almost the same as the car sunshade stuff and is easy to handle and use while not being outrageously expensive.I mention all this because I don't find that many people are aware of it, even those in the know.

I also read very recently in This Old House magazine about a new cold temperature air source heat pump that is supposed to be as energy efficient as a geothermal heat pump but much less expensive to install.It is called the Acadia and is manufactured in Maine(I think the company is Hallowell).It apparently works very well down to minus 30 instead of the plus 30( and then backup heat was needed with the regular heat pumps), so it can save substantially on heating costs.It is fairly new to the market, but it is definitely on my wish list as soon as our propane furnace needs replaced or sooner if we can afford it.

To whom it may concern,

Is this a "balloon" structure building? Walls built with studs that run through to the second story? Blowing cellulose into old wall cavities can be tricky. In the golden years of house construction, plastering the walls was par normal. Some plasterers were better than others. Some of the guys would shlep it on and on the other side of the lathe "interior" ridges of plaster would build up amounting to protuberances throughout the interior of the wall. When blowing insulation in these I have punched holes about three feet up on the wall and then another at the top of the cavity. Blowing the bottom hole full first, watching during the process to see if chunks of cellulose are coming out of the top hole. After the bottom hole is full, tap the wall . A couple of good thumps is sufficient then fill the top hole. A more unifrm fill will yield better insulating properties and no "cold spots".

A masonry heater may be an option for you guys if you are handy and can work it out w/ a local contractor for some kind of labor credit. Contrary to popular belief, masonry heaters, if built right are very efficient and if built to serve also act as a trombe wall. Examples can be seen at mha-net.org.

The gaps in the floor can be remedied from the underside with celotex installed between the floor joists. Celotex will refract the heat back into the living space while being covered by your wood floor. 

As far as the cisterns are concerned, they would be better utilized as a storage space. Too much humidity caused by evaporation in your basement is going to cause you trouble in the future.

Ensure you insulate the attic space as well as giving the attic the ability to breathe. Plenty of soffit, gable or roof vents. This is essential, your attic should mirror the same conditions as the great out of doors.

Good luck with the Vicky, I've done a couple myself and there is a reward to be reaped when you finish.

Amy and Bill, I used to live in Syracuse NY so I know it is hard to be comfortable in winter with below zero and winds. I had the insulation blown in my walls. I also added outside storm windows. Also be sure the attic has as much insulation as you can fit.

A passive solar tromb wall could be ok but we never had enough clear sunny days to make it work well. I stick with the added insulation and windows.

I wouldn't was to be on natural gas and have a fireplace in winter. The US hit peak NG in 2004 and we import a lot from Canada so it will go up even more. The fireplace is very poor for the environment and also sends air up the chimmny. It's a looser.

   Long term I'd check geo thermal companies. Also the inflector window coveres used in Canada for over 20 years. I even have them on my home in Arizona. Maybe we can send you some extra heat and you send some cool air to us.

solar stacks